弘前市（ひろさき）位於日本青森縣西南部，大多數人會馬上聯想到櫻花、蘋果批、西洋式建築。第一次到訪也是因為旅行期間意外看見弘前的蘋果批地圖，就立刻從青森JR站跳上火車。但當時大雪紛飛，又已接近傍晚，走訪幾間店舖都落空，在冷清的街道遇見這家燒鳥店「鳥ふじ」。不過當時已經滿席，之前又吃了點東西，便打道回府。不過，我們一直念念不忘這間燒鳥店，同年8月終於可以一嘗。
當時是平日晚上，店內都差不多滿席，但慶幸吧檯尚帶兩個位置。日文餐牌直接貼在燒台後的酒櫃，勉勉強強點了些不同部位的雞串燒，香菇串燒等等。然後我們就默默坐著看師傅在燒台前細心地一串串翻轉。邊等邊嗅著炭火和油脂的混合，化成裊裊炊煙。不知道是因為太心急，還是真的慢工出細火，等待時間比其他燒鳥店稍長，但結果論來說 ── 非常值得！
雞串外皮香脆，又有炭的焦香，咬一啖還有肉汁流出，即使只有用鹽簡單調味，但每一口都很滋味。這是我吃過最好食的雞串燒！師傅實在把「梅納反應」發揮到極致！炭火會釋放很強的紅外線輻射，令食材表面高速升溫，水分開始蒸發後，胺基酸和糖開始反應，便會釋放食材獨有的香氣。接著，師傅又遞上一串令人難以忘懷的香菇串燒，本來我以為特別的菇菌種類才有的濃郁香氣，但應該梅納的助攻令到香菇的含硫香氣成分受熱後所致。
後來在網上搜查資料發現「鳥ふじ」在弘前一帶向來都是有名的燒鳥店，於是1980年左右開店，現在掌廚的應該就是「二代目」。自從嘗過這家店，我也一直在尋找美味的燒鳥店，可惜還沒有找到一家令我滿意。
到訪日期： 2023年 8月
店舖：鳥ふじ
地址：青森県弘前市大字親方町1-9 （https://maps.app.goo.gl/BZpnPB24qhgKwnF79）
電話：+81 172-36-2697
P.S. 封面店舖圖片取自網絡，其餘為自己拍攝。
Hirosaki City is located in the southwestern part of Aomori Prefecture, Japan. For most people, the city immediately brings to mind cherry blossoms, apple pies, and Western-style architecture.
My first visit to Hirosaki actually happened by chance. While travelling in Aomori, I came across a map highlighting the city’s many apple pie shops and immediately hopped on a train from Aomori Station. Unfortunately, it was snowing heavily and already approaching evening. After finding several shops closed or sold out, we wandered along the quiet streets and stumbled upon a yakitori restaurant called Torifuji.
The restaurant was already full, and since we had eaten a little earlier, we decided to head back. Still, Torifuji somehow stayed in our minds. In August of the same year, we finally returned for a proper meal.
It was a weekday evening, and the restaurant was again almost full, but luckily there were two seats left at the counter. The handwritten Japanese menu was simply posted on the drinks cabinet behind the grill. With our limited Japanese, we managed to order a selection of chicken skewers featuring different cuts, along with grilled shiitake mushrooms and a few other items.
Then we simply sat and watched the chef at work, carefully turning each skewer over the charcoal grill. As we waited, the aromas of charcoal and rendered fat mingled together and rose gently in wisps of smoke.
Perhaps we were just getting impatient, or perhaps good things really do take time, but the wait felt slightly longer than at other yakitori restaurants. In hindsight, however, it was absolutely worth it.
The chicken skewers arrived with beautifully crisp exteriors and a deep charcoal aroma. With the first bite, juices still flowed from the meat. Despite being seasoned with nothing more than salt, every mouthful was intensely satisfying. To this day, these remain the best chicken skewers I have ever had.
The chef had seemingly pushed the Maillard reaction to its full potential. Charcoal gives off intense infrared radiation, rapidly heating the surface of the food. As moisture evaporates, amino acids and sugars begin to react, producing the distinctive roasted aromas and flavours associated with browning.
Then came another unforgettable skewer: grilled shiitake mushroom. At first, I assumed its remarkably rich aroma came from a particularly fragrant variety of mushroom. More likely, however, the Maillard reaction had also played a part, intensifying the shiitake’s natural sulphur-containing aroma compounds as they were heated.
I later looked Torifuji up online and discovered that it has long been regarded as a well-known yakitori restaurant in Hirosaki. It appears to have opened around 1980, and the chef behind the grill today is likely the second-generation owner.
Ever since eating at Torifuji, I have kept searching for another yakitori restaurant that could leave the same impression. So far, I still haven’t found one.
Date of Visit: August 2023
Restaurant: Torifuji
Address: 1-9 Oyakatamachi, Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan
https://maps.app.goo.gl/BZpnPB24qhgKwnF79
Tel: +81 172-36-2697
P.S. The cover photo of the restaurant was sourced online; all other photos were taken by me. The English text was translated from Chinese with the assistance of ChatGPT (GPT-5.6 Sol).
NC Food Notes 
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